Village Voice 04.19.2017 : Page 16

B LIN OW LIN G & BEERh B OW G & BEER B OW LIN G B OW LIN G & BEER OW LIN G & BEER & BEER served not with toasts but as quenelles atop whole shiso leaves. A trio of them show up on a bed of crushed ice, the com-bination of creamy, smoky seafood, pick-led jalapeño, fried onion, and licorice-y herb striking all the requisite highs of a solid drinking snack. Smoked salmon is great and all, but boy do I hope ish charcuterie in general becomes more of a thing. At All Hands, Lipson soaks albacore tuna in brine “for four to ive days” before cold-smoking, camouflaging in a heavy coating of spices teeming with coriander, and roasting off enough that the result retains some tenderness. During brunch, the faux-Mussel toast, pastrami is sliced thick for a wackily en-smoked-salmon ticing $16 reuben sandwich decked out rillettes, and with Russian dressing, pickled cabbage, tuna pastrami and provolone that somehow works bet-at All Hands ter than you’d fear. At night, slabs of the cured ish fare especially well over garlic aioli–slicked buckwheat blini ($15), the tony hors d’oeuvres crowned with pickled red onion, mustard seeds, and trout roe. With nods to old-school New York fla-vors, this kind of New American cooking achieves a thrilling sense of place. The bulk of the menu breaks down into REST AURANT small and large plates, with the former Authentic Argentinian Cuisine providing the most enthralling moments. Williamsburg’s All Hands takes Not that hunks of piccata-sauced sword-inspiration from the sea and runs with it ish towering over leeks and carrots, or skate wing seared golden-brown with BY ZACHARY FELDMAN PHOTOGRAPH BY JANELLE JONES marble potatoes and asparagus, aren’t well composed. But I won’t soon forget Lipson’s $10 sourdough toast of steamed its decorative rigor, the restaurant traight out of a high school theater mussels with beef fat béarnaise, unctuous doesn’t take itself too seriously. production of South Paciic or in the extreme beneath a green cloak of When the place gets crowded, the crew The Pirates of Penzance , a row of garlicky carrot top–parsley salad. Same will stow you below deck, possibly at one of hand-painted crested waves rises goes for the way Calabrian chile snakes its the communal tables in the back of the up from the alcove window across spicy way through a plate of littleneck room, which, rather than feeling like Sibe-from All Hands’ raw bar. The three-clam–studded passatelli ($24), the north-ria, exudes a convivial coziness and offers dimensional set piece is a nod to the ern Italian pasta made from eggs, bread-peeks into the semi-open kitchen. Playful boisterous double-decker seafood den’s crumbs, and cheese. There’s also the mischief manifests in there, too, under the métier. It’s also a charmingly crafty de-Best of NYC, Village Voice harmonious pairing of irm monk ish direction of Pete Lipson. The thirty-year-parture, design-wise, for co-owner Craig with seasoned pork belly for old executive chef worked for Shillitto, the Brooklyn-based architect re-East Village • 513 E 6th Street, NYC salsa verde–squirted skewers Alex Stupak at Empellón Co-sponsible for the crisp aesthetics of high-All Hands buenosairesnyc.com ($14), which hit the table cina and ran the show at farm-pro ile spots like Loring Place and Lilia. 29 Dunham Place, 212-228-2775 lightly charred and set beside to-table trailblazer Northern Standing in the shadow of the Wil-Brooklyn Call or visit our website for reservations gangly, gently sour pickled Spy Food Co. until its unfortu-liamsburg Bridge, All Hands is housed in 718 963 0078 Basque guindilla peppers for nate closing last year. Here in a low-slung, graf iti-tagged standalone allhands.nyc a further hit of acid. And gen-Brooklyn, he steers the ship — structure where Shillitto once lived and erously, the kitchen will load and navigates the frequently grew rooftop herbs, grapes, and heir-up puff pastry with a heady, murky mess changing menu — with a steady hand. loom tomatoes. Returning to the of sautéed snails and artichokes, apples, Unlike similar pescatarian endeavors nineteenth-century stable and carriage and garlic butter for $13. Snuck under-around town, All Hands doesn’t go over-house last December, he and partners neath the escargot tart is a sweet, fatty board with the raw seafood options. You Gideon Klein and Jay Lehman have marmalade lush with bacon, red wine, can get East and West Coast oysters on carved out a pair of distinct dining rooms and brown sugar. That bacon — cured by the half-shell and douse them with caper-connected by a narrow stairwell and the Lipson and mightily smoky — also shows lime mignonette or tangy, peppery yuzu palpable energy emanating from a broad up in one of the kitchen’s few mis ires: a kosho cocktail sauce, the latter of which spectrum of snazzily dressed Brook-confounding $27 lobster roll that would also works wonders on occasional spe-lynites. With its distressed-wood floors, be great if not for the erratic sploosh of cials like ultra-sweet Gulf pink shrimp plush, blue-gray banquettes on the celery seed mayo across the outside of the ($18). And, while somewhat expected ground level, and clubby, cherry-red bun, which makes it unwieldy for no good because of their ubiquity, the crudos do a booths huddled by a second cocktail bar reason. Keep your condiments inside the ine job of standing out. Fish sauce sasses downstairs, the interior is as sophisticat-bread at all times, please. up cubes of sake-cured Spanish mackerel edly attractive as any of Shillitto’s other Dessert arrives with an announce-and grapefruit ($12) in one menu main-projects. You can even snag glimpses of ment from your server. Hope for the al-stay, while a recent addition submerged the bridge from a few choice tables up-mond inancier with dense cheesecake slivers of black bass ($14) in zingier-than-stairs while sipping on one of beverage ice cream. If they’re out of doughnut usual buttermilk bearing a faint trace of director Anna-Lisa Campos’s highly holes — coated in cinnamon sugar, as horseradish and forti ied with pumper-inventive concoctions, which come gar-OW LIN G & St., BEER 200 B North 14th Brooklyn, NY with 11211 200 North 14th St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 light and puffy as marshmallows, and nickel crumbs, which lent a needed malty nished things like chamomile buds 718-387-3585 ★ thegutterbrooklyn.com North 14th St., 200 North NY 14th 11211 St., Brooklyn, NY 11211 718-387-3585 ★ thegutterbrooklyn.com dipped into citrusy chocolate sauce — crunch. Just as effortlessly devoured is and dehydrated pineapple “umbrellas.” 14th 200 112113585 200 North 14th St., Brooklyn, Brooklyn, St., Brooklyn, NY NY 11211 718-387-3585 ★ thegutterbrooklyn.com 718-387-3585 ★ waves, thegutterbrooklyn.com however, you should consider channeling the coho salmon smoked with applewood Those painted however, feel like 718-387-3585 ★ thegutterbrooklyn.com ★ thegutterbrooklyn.com some angry sailors and mutinying. and turned into creamy rillettes ($9), more of a sly wink — a signal that for all 16 VILLAGE VOICE.com April 19 April 25, 2017 EATS Buenos Aires ANCHORS AWEIGH “Voted Best Steak House Alternative” S

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